Strangers are few and life is relaxed

By D. PARVAZ
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER REPORTER

The pace here is relaxed -- so relaxed it may seem impossible to detect movement on parts of this Indian reservation in Marysville.

Unless, of course, you're driving along Marine Drive, where the 35 mph speed limit is shrugged off by most as a mere suggestion. Those who adhere to the limit quickly become acquainted with a community of well-trained tailgaters.

No horns are honked and no voices raised because this isn't the big city where road rage -- and other reckless behavior -- is randomly inflicted upon anonymous drivers.

Chances are, you're going to bump into the slowpokes in front of you again and again -- that's assuming you don't already know them. That's how it works in these parts. And that's how they like it, thank you very much. Just ask Cheyenne Marcellay.

"I like living here. There's a real feeling of community in this place," says the 21-year-old Marcellay.

"That's one thing I don't get when I go to the Everett Mall or to Marysville -- you really don't know all that many people. But when you go to the tribal stores, the marina, the powwows and the long house ceremonies, you know 95 percent of the people."

Big-city thinking has many people socialized into looking at life in a small, familiar community as suffocating. That's not how Marcellay feels.

"In this world of chaos," she says, "I find it very comforting to live here."

The casino, where Marcellay works as a hostess, opened in 1992 and draws most of its customers from Lynnwood, Everett, Marysville and Canada.

This doesn't mean that the casino has caused a boom in the Tulalip tourism industry. Most visitors stick to the edge of the reservation where motels, fast-food restaurants, bingo hall and the casino are located.

The casino has, however, upped employment roles in tribal offices. Once able to employ only 200 tribal members, the tribal government now provides jobs for about 500 -- more than ever. Of the casino's 600 or so employees, about a third are tribal members.

Casino profits are shared with Snohomish County Sheriff, City of Marysville, and Fire Districts 12 and 15, among other entities.

The casino cash flow is bringing another bonus to Tulalip: Technology.

"We're going to go full-blown -- we're going to network the whole reservation," says John McCoy, director of government affairs for the Tulalip Tribes.

He says he plans to involve everyone from Microsoft to local college students to help set up the network.

How things have changed.

The Tulalip reservation was created on Jan. 22, 1855, after the signing of the Treaty of Point Elliott. The Tulalip Tribes are a combination of several small tribes rolled into one by the Reorganization Act of 1934, allowing the members -- including the Skykomish, Snoqualmie and Snohomish -- to band together.

According to McCoy, there are 3,036 members of the Tulalip Tribes and about half live on the reservation.

Tulalip comes from the word "Duy-hlay-lup," a native description for the strip of land that pokes out of the bay at low tide. It was here that Captain George Vancouver reportedly beached his famous ship, The Discovery.

There's more to Tulalip than a strip of sand and a casino, so keep driving down Marine Drive.

Just minutes away from the I-5, the only sound you'll hear is leaves rusting in the wind. There's a feeling of being in the middle of nowhere, even though Marysville is on the other side of the roaring highway and Seattle is less than an hour's drive away.

Drive into the heart of the reservation and try some Leota's Fry Breads -- Indian soul food.

Owner Leota Pablo was born and raised on the Tulalip reservation, and like other old-time residents of the area, remembers quieter times.

"Used to be a time when the roads were totally quiet. No traffic. Now there's always cars flying by," she adds, swinging her arms before her in a chaotic manner.

Local artist Chuck Campbell echoes her sentiments.

"I remember driving up here from Tacoma 20 years ago," says Campbell. "Once you hit Everett, there'd be three cars. No kidding. Three cars. Now it's non-stop."

Campbell, a man with a mellow disposition, carves bears, totem poles, ship captains and eagles, using a chain saw. He adds details with a chisel.

He used to be a painter, but when a friend took a look at some of his work, he said, "It's about time you learned how to carve, boy."

And learn he did. Campbell's works are seen all around the reservation and beyond. He once shipped a piece to a customer in New York.

Campbell estimates that he's carved hundreds of stumps over the last few years alone.