Originally published Saturday, August 2, 1997

By MARK HIGGINS
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER REPORTER

Magnolia's mix of mansions and ranch homes, condos and apartments, hilltop views and tranquility make it a desirable place. It helps that the neighborhood touches water on three sides and has hillside lots with great views.

But those steep hillsides have haunted residents, especially this year. Magnolia was plagued by horrific winter mudslides, causing huge losses, especially along Perkins Lane, as well as the four-month closure of the Magnolia Bridge.

And some residents say they suffer from the roar of passing jetliners and the banging boxcars of Interbay. Perhaps the biggest inconvenience of all, though, is the long haul to get to Interstate 5.

Magnolia's commercial "village" is changing along with the demographics. Gone are the bowling alley, theater and seven gas stations.

The village's seediest bar has been transformed into Szmania's, arguably Magnolia's classiest restaurant. Run by Julie and her husband, Ludger, it enjoys a reputation for serving fine regional foods as well as fun seasonal fare, including summer barbecue on Sundays.

When they opened six years ago, the Szmanias draped each table with white linen tablecloths. Linen seemed a natural choice to Ludger, a native of Dusseldorf, Germany, and a former executive chef at Four Seasons Olympic Hotel.

But Magnolia was not ready for that and the Szmanias say they put away the tablecloths. They also tinkered with their menu to include smaller portions, children's meals, even hamburgers to make the restaurant more accessible to the neighborhood.

Only in the past year -- after many complimentary restaurant reviews in local and national media -- has the linen reappeared on Szmania's tables.

During that time, new neighborhood staples such as Starbucks and Tully's coffee shops have cropped up, along with an independent shop, Caffe Appassionato. A couple of destination restaurants have arrived, including Palisade on Magnolia's south flank and Chinook's in Fisherman's Terminal on the north end.

Continued:

• Great views, a changing scene
• Feistiness a neighborhood trademark
• Park is a slice of wilderness inside the city